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News
and comment by a journalist based in London
Thinking about cooking up a marketing campaign? Why not talk to your chef? This first appeared in Tandoori Magazine, May 1998. IF
IT'S anywhere in a restaurant, creativity tends to be located in the
kitchen. Slice open your favourite chef’s specialty dish. The recipe
may form its backbone; the ingredients may make up its parts. So far,
so text book. What finally pokes technique into art is the chef’s
creativity. That’s what makes the dish something worth shouting about.
What’s
often not realised is that this creativity is transferable. New ideas?
Isn’t that what modern business is about? Scratch an innovative restaurateur;
find, more often than not, a former chef. But
restaurateurs thinking of utilising their chefs more fully should note
that arty types might find the intricacies of profit and loss accounts
a bit of a yawn. Rather than the boardroom, a better first posting outside
the kitchen is the marketing department. Chefs'
understanding of what turns customers on, of colour, balance, aesthetics,
should slot them in quite nicely with the chaps with the colourful ties
and mid-Atlantic accents. Crossing
departmental lines isn’t just useful to the owner. Mehernosh Mody, Executive
Chef at the Blue Elephant Group’s La Porte des Indes in
London, says that it’s in the chef’s own self-interest to take a keen
interest in the restaurant’s marketing strategies. You can be fantastic
in the kitchen, says the award-winning chef, but if no one’s heard about
your restaurant, no one’s going to taste your food. You have to take
a proactive approach. "If
you know that what you’ve got is good, if you’re confident about it,
then go out and market it. And the rest is for the public to judge.
If they like it, they’ll come back and tell you it’s great." Set
up in February 1996, with Mody as executive chef and his wife Sherin
Alexander as manager, the 350-seat La Porte specialises in Indo-French
cuisine. Mody explains that, like the Portuguese in Goa, the French
controlled a few small areas of India. In Pondicherry in the west, the
French influence can still be seen: a French Creole population; some
crumbling examples of French architecture; dishes with a "French twist".
With
a diploma in hotel management from India, five years with the Taj Group,
seven years with the Brussels-based Blue Elephant Group, Mody has the
experience and training to handle a wide remit. A broad-based
formal training equips him better than most to take an interest in extraculinary
matters. Perhaps
the best example of this is the restaurant’s annual month-long food
festival. Due to start in June, this year’s festival aims to celebrate
the cuisine found in India’s southern states. Dishes
will include: Red Banana Fritters from Bangalore; Boatman’s Fish Curry
from Madras; Pickled Pork in Aromatic Spices and Rice Vinegar from the
Coorg Mountains; Malabar Prawns & Plantation Spices in a Rich Yellow
Curry from Kerala. Set menus will range from £22 to £34. Festivals
take several months of planning, says Mody. It’s an intense experience
with lots of hard work. "It’s not something we just think up on
the spur of the moment and do. It won’t happen like that." Deciding
what theme to choose is a collective task. He and his wife discuss it
with the management team before putting an idea forward to Blue Elephant’s
board of directors. It weighs the various pros and cons. Last
year’s Spice Trail festival was built around a menu that used rare spices
from different regions: regional cooking with added, well, spice; certainly,
from the customer’s point of view, added value. With
the green light to go ahead, Mody searches through the relevant cookery
books and his own collection of notes. He incorporates his ideas with
those of his chefs. The dishes are trialed until Mody and his team are
satisfied. "We
have to get the dish right. And that includes thinking how to market
it. In this case, South Indian local names for recipes would mean little
to most people. We had to translate them into words more easily understood
by customers." The
final touch is a note announcing the festival on a banana leaf.
This is sent out to the restaurant’s 15, 000-strong database. What sets
the card apart is that it’s posted in India; it has an Indian stamp.
Mody
explains: "With these little touches, we go all the way. That’s what
this company believes in." He
admits that it’s expensive. He won’t be drawn on exactly how expensive.
It eventually pays for itself. "We’re satisfied if the customers are
satisfied. We eventually gain in the long run because we find that customers
come back." Mody
adds: "For me, specially, it’s not just about making more money. It’s
the fun, the challenge of doing something a little different from the
usual routine, something to get involved in, something to stretch
what I know about Indian food." home|
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